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Wordpress and BBPress integration

May 27th, 2009 · Computers

This is not new, it’s just a bullet pointed version of the fantastic screencast over on the official site. Hopefully this will be helpful if you are just looking for a reminder of how to do it without wanting to rewatch the whole movie.

  • Install WP
    • Create a config file
    • Set collation type in config file to utf8_general_ci
    • Run installer
    • Login / change your pw / logout
  • Set up the keys and salts in the config file and login again to make sure you still can
  • Install BBPress
    • Create a config file
      • Include the collation
      • Leave the keys blank for now
    • During the integration step of the installer include the keys
  • Logout of BBPress then login as admin from wp installation
    • Go to wordpress settings
    • Skip BBPress speed up techniques for now
  • Login to the Wordpress installation
    • Install the new plugin BBPress Integration and activate
    • Fill out settings for the plugin
    • add the cookie settings to config file

I’d recommend watching the screencast if you haven’t before but hopefully this will be helpful if you are just looking for a reminder of the non-intuitive parts of the install. Enjoy your integrated sites!

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Wordpress Speed Tweaks and Hacks

May 26th, 2009 · Chicago

A few weeks ago I was considering putting good money on the table for a dedicated private server to host my sites. My main reason was to gain the performance advantages of the dedicated resources. I run a handful of sites on a handful of domains with moderate traffic for the most part. Does this sort of load really warrant a private server? Before going that route I wanted to make sure so I started researching performance tweaks for my sites.

I run mostly Wordpress installations with some other apps and some custom apps. The suggestions I found are wordpress specific but some will help any site you want to speed up. The results from applying these have been very good so I hope you consider implementing some or all of them yourself.

Assuming you have all the obvious stuff set up (Akismet for spam and Super Cache for caching) this article also doesn’t have to do with getting people to your site either (SEO, Sitemap, robots.txt, feedburner) or making money once they are there (Adsense, social networking, referals). These are all valuable topics but this article is about showing as many pages to as many visitors as fast as possible.

My favorite hacks so far are:

  • Creating Expire headers using htaccess. This will allow browsers to cache most of the media on your page leading to great improvements in load times. Here’s what you need to add to your .htaccess file:
    Header unset Pragma
    FileETag None
    Header unset ETag
    
    # 1 YEAR
    
    Header set Cache-Control "public"
    Header set Expires "Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:00:00 GMT"
    Header unset Last-Modified
    
    # 2 HOURS
    
    Header set Cache-Control "max-age=7200, must-revalidate"
    
    # CACHED FOREVER
    # MOD_REWRITE TO RENAME EVERY CHANGE
    
    Header set Cache-Control "public"
    Header set Expires "Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:00:00 GMT"
    Header unset Last-Modified
  • Set up a subdomain to store commonly used images on your site — such as theme images and sidebar images. Browsers will load media in parrallel from subdomains giving you performance increases. Try saving widget images from your sidebar in that subdomain as well rather than making requests to other webservers (feedburner or facebook for example). Be sure to remember to apply the above .htaccess hack to you subdomain as well for additional browser caching.
  • PHP bloat is any php call that a theme makes for what is not, for the most part, dynamic content. For example, look in your theme header.php doc and compare it to the source of your redendered page. My guess is there is a series of php calls (which likely call sql queries as well) for information such as the name of your blog, the location of the .css files, the content type, and others. If you replace this php with the resulting html you will save significant load time on every requested page on your site. Check out the footer and sidebar as well. This is more helpful with a blog that is not changing rapidly and I wouldn’t recommend it for a new install you are still tweaking, but the savings here are significant.

I’m still testing some additional plugins but here is what I’ve liked so far:

  • Javascript to footer will give the appearance that your site is loading faster than it is by loading the content first then parsing the javascript. Easy to implement with instant results
  • Revision Control will help with load on your server while posting. The revisioning feature with wordpress is cool but I’ve found that it leads to more database bloat than it is worth. I turn it off and clear out the stored revisions using a sql query.
  • WP-DBManager is a must have plugin for all wordpress blogs…period. Set it up to run regular backups and optimizations and forget about it. Optimizations will help reverse fragmenting in your database which will improve your performance as well.

These are some excellent resources with many interesting ideas for you to consider:

So for now, I have been able to optimize my sites so significantly that I think a hardware upgrade is pushed off at least for now — sorry Dreamhost maybe next time :-) . As a side note, these tips are essential for preparing for a slashdotting or digging. So if you are creating great content out there on the web — and i know you are — you may want to make site optimization a priority especially if you’ve never considered it seriously before.

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MySpace CSS Styling: Taming the Beast

May 17th, 2009 · Internet

Recently I went mano y mano with MySpace and wanted to share my expereinces. We all know the fact that MySpace is the worst written most popular web application on the internet; it is sort of a grotesque freak that you know you should just forget about but seems to just keep coming back to over and over.

My most recent tussle was for the sake of my wife who was looking for more consistant branding not only on her blog but across her social networking sites. The only three I believe worth spending time on today is twitter, myspace and facebook (youtube is a subject for another post). Her twitter was easily done and there’s not much you can do with facebook so that left Big Ugly to contend with. Hopefully, I’ll be able to pass along some tips in case you are interested in putting lipstick on this pig.

First of all, I am very impressed with what we were able to achieve. This is mostly because the crowd who uses and develops themes and hacks for myspace seem to have about as much good sense as the core developers themselves.  Second, if you care about semantic markup and elegant coding, working with myspace might give you a heart attack. You have to be willing to compromise with the site and write some nasty CSS to get it to display a decent looking page.

Luckily, Mike Davidson wrote a very helpful and tremendously funny post with source on a pretty in depth look at the available CSS hooks and hacks necessary to wrangle a good looking page. Please let his work be a starting point for your own efforts; it will likely be good for your health.

Besides tweaking his CSS doc for our own branding purposes (and creating the requisite images of course), there was a big of tweaking around hiding certain page elements that my wife didn’t want displayed: page url, blog, comments, and top friends. Here’s what was necessary:

  1. Page url is in a table with class .userProfileURL so a simple display: none did the trick
  2. The blog section is located entirely in .latestBlogEntry so the same display:none works there as well
  3. Same goes for comments which are entirely in .friendsComments
  4. Finally, top friends but not the display all friends links or the heading displaying total number of friends. The necessary code is: .friendSpace tr td.text table tr td table tr td { display: none; }

The results I think you’ll agree is a very presentable and professional myspace page…or at least the closest you’re likely to get on MySpace. I think the take away here is that it is possible to brand myspace if you feel there is a good reason to have a presence there. With limited amount of effort you can right many of the wrongs that come with your account by default. Good luck and feel free to share your successes (and questions) in the comments.

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Two new blogs!

February 19th, 2009 · Computers

linksI have installed and configured two new blogs: Nedlinks and FDR Blogs that I am very excited about. They are both syndication type blogs that are using state of the art blogging software and tools. Check them out and subscribe to their feeds to get the latest from them.

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Using Forms in Wordpress Posts and Pages

February 17th, 2009 · Computers

I recently made a simple tool to help folks buy the right size of of Levi’s 501xx Shrink to Fit Jeans. It includes a form that takes two numbers as inputs then performs some logic and returns the results on the same page. It was surprisingly easy to do but took me a surprisingly long time to figure out so I hope this explanation of how I did it will be helpful for others!

I made a page template for this tool that at the top had my logic for the utility then at the bottom displayed the page content as added through the wp-admin page editor. Admittedly, this is not great php work but for a quick example it gets the point across. Basically it goes a little something like this: (warning, this is not the actual code for the page and will likely not work if you copy and paste it directly)

<?php
/*
Template Name: Sizing
*/
?>

<?php get_header(); ?>
<div id=”content_box”>
<div id=”content” class=”pages”>
<?php if (have_posts()) : while (have_posts()) : the_post(); ?>
<?php endwhile; endif; ?>

<div id=”post-<?php the_ID(); ?>” <?php post_class(); ?>>
<h2><?php the_title(); ?></h2>
<div id=”sizing-form” class=”entry”>
<?php
$sizeForm = “<form method=\”post\” action=\”\”>W:<input type=\”text\” size=\”3\” maxlength=\”2\” name=\”Wsize\”>  x L:<input type=\”text\” size=\”3\” maxlength=\”2\” name=\”Lsize\”><input type=\”submit\” value=\”submit\” name=\”submit\”></form>”;
$Wsize = $_POST["Wsize"];
$Lsize = $_POST["Lsize"];
if (!isset($_POST['submit'])) { // if page is not submitted to itself echo the form
echo $sizeForm.”<br /><br />”;
}

else { // display form again with results
echo $sizeForm.”<br /><br />”;
echo “<p>Your measured pant size is, “.$Wsize.”x”.$Lsize.”.</p>”;

//special logic here on the input variables from the form, creating new variables referenced below

echo “<ul><li>The Official Levi’s Recommendation is: “.$Leviw.”x”.$Levil.”.</li>”;
echo “<li>My Recommendation is: <strong>”.$Nedw.”x”.$Nedl.”</strong>.</li>”;
echo “<li>My Recommendation if you want a cuff is: “.$Cuffw.”x”.$Cuffl.”.</li></ul>”;
}
?>
</div>
<div class=”entry”>
<?php the_content(’<p>Read the rest of this page &rarr;</p>’); ?>
<?php link_pages(’<p><strong>Pages:</strong> ‘, ‘</p>’, ‘number’); ?>
</div>
<?php if (’open’ == $post-> comment_status) { ?>
<p class=”tagged”><a href=”<?php the_permalink() ?>#comments”><?php comments_number(’No Comments’, ‘1 Comment’, ‘% Comments’); ?></a></p>
<div class=”clear”></div>
<?php } else { ?>
<div class=”clear rule”></div>
<?php } ?>
<?php if (’open’ == $post-> comment_status) { comments_template(); } ?>
</div>

</div>
<?php include (TEMPLATEPATH . ‘/sidebar.php’); ?>
<?php include (TEMPLATEPATH . ‘/r_sidebar.php’); ?>
</div>
<?php get_footer(); ?>

So here is the basic structure:

Declare the template name (used in the page editor to assign the template to the page)

Include Header

Start Page and include title

Insert custom code for the form you want to use

Continue to display the page content from the editor (div class “entry”)

Include sidebars and footer

The key learning for me was to return the values on the same page, you need to declare a blank action:

<form method=”post” action=”">

I have read that people have luck with a GET method as well so that is also worth trying if you are having difficulty.

I hope this is helpful for people looking to do something similar. For me, it was a simple enough form that I didn’t need a huge plugin with ajax and database storage to achieve it, but I did want something more interactive than a chart or static table. Let me know if this has been helpful!

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Adding Google Adsense Custom Search to Wordpress

February 17th, 2009 · Computers

So, Adsense has a newish custom search tool for adding to your sites which I rather like. It is flexible and can be embedded easier than the previous searches. The major benefit is the ability to have the search results display on a results page of your choice rather than a standard full page Google-looking results page. This of course means seemless integration with your theme and generally better user experience.

There are plugins that will do this for you including Google Custom Search, and Easy Adsenser the latter I use for displaying adsense on this blog and I would certainly recommend. However, when it came to the custom search I found them both lacking so I decided to roll my own. It is not the most elegant solution; I would rather this functionality be in a plugin form so as to separate it from my theme files making it easier to upgrade my theme.

After a bit of experimentation and a key discovery, it was pretty easy for me to DIY the custom google search directly into my theme files. Here’s how I did it:

Implementing the Google Custom Search

First, go to Adsense and get your Custom Search code for the initial search box and the code for the results page. Yours will be different than the examples I use here so get your own if you want it to work right.

Wordpress generally uses 2 theme template files to perform searches: searchform.php and search.php. Search Form basically is the search box and submit button that you can put in a widget in your sidebar or include directly on a page. When you use searchform.php to submit a search, the results are automatically displayed on a results page using search.php as the template. The key step to note is how this automagically happens. Here’s my searchform.php:

<form method=”get” id=”search_form” action=”<?php bloginfo(’home’); ?>/”>

<form action=”http://1isa2isb.com/index.php?” id=”cse-search-box”>
<div>
<input type=”hidden” name=”cx” value=”partner-pub-2104946415586713:eq89vrj188e” />
<input type=”hidden” name=”cof” value=”FORID:11″ />
<input type=”hidden” name=”ie” value=”ISO-8859-1″ />
<input type=”text” name=”q” size=”20″ />
<input type=”submit” name=”sa” value=”Search” />
<input type=”hidden” name=”s” value=”Search” />
<input type=”hidden” name=”submit” value=”" />

</div>
</form>

<script type=”text/javascript” src=”/cse/brand?form=cse-search-box&amp;lang=en”></script>

</form>

The basic structure here to look at is:

Wordpress Form

Google Custom Search Code

End Wordpress Form

The key is there are two additional lines (in bold above) that are added to the Google Custom Search Code that don’t affect the code working correctly but do allow wordpress to automatically display the results on search.php.

<input type=”hidden” name=”s” value=”Search” />
<input type=”hidden” name=”submit” value=”" />

You can also change the size of the search box itself by adjusting the number in the line: <input type=”text” name=”q” size=”20″ />

Next is creating your search.php file. Here’s mine:

<?php get_header(); ?>
<div id=”cse-search-div”>
<div id=”cse-search-results”></div>
<script type=”text/javascript”>
var googleSearchIframeName = “cse-search-results”;
var googleSearchFormName = “cse-search-box”;
var googleSearchFrameWidth = 500;
var googleSearchDomain = “www.google.com”;
var googleSearchPath = “/cse”;
</script>
<script type=”text/javascript” src=”http://www.google.com/afsonline/show_afs_search.js”></script>
</div>

<div id=”search-sidebar”>
<?php include (TEMPLATEPATH . ‘/sidebar.php’); ?>
<?php include (TEMPLATEPATH . ‘/r_sidebar.php’); ?>
</div>
<?php get_footer(); ?>

The basic structure here to look at is:

Include your Header

Wrap your Google Results code in a div (for styling purposes only, optional step)

paste you Google Custom Search Results code

Include your Sidebars

Include you Footer

The only thing I changed in the google code was: var googleSearchFrameWidth = 500; I changed the width to 500px to better match my theme. I also wrapped the Custom Google Search Results code in a div so that I can more easily style the Google results. I believe I floated it left and floated my sidebars right but you can check the css if you have questions about it.

Remember to backup your old searchform.php and search.php before replacing them with the new files. Make it easy on yourself to roll these changes back if you don’t like them.

Conclusion

The major learning for me was the two lines in the searchform that allowed wordpress to automatically use my search.php. After that the rest was pretty straight forward. Check it out by using the search box at the top of the sidebars on the right. Let me know how it goes for you!

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Sizes and Levi’s 501xx Shrink to Fit Jeans

February 16th, 2009 · Fashion

Don’t forget to check out the new 501xx Sizing Tool that will help you determine what size to buy! As always, for more articles on Jeans please see the Levi’s 501xx page.

Admittedly, buying the right size of 501xx Shrink to Fit jeans is not the easiest task since they change so drastically when they shrink. However, with a bit of practice and help a lot of the mystery and variability can be eliminated. Of course, like in many things, experience is king; luckily a pair of 501’s won’t break the bank if you mess up (usually about $35) so experimentation is always recommended. Getting the exact right size can make the difference between a pair that is ok and a pair that you love.

Personally, I haven’t found the official Levi’s recommendations (printed on the back pocket tag on a new pair) to be very helpful. Even after extended wear they never quite get to the right proportions for me. To make things more confusing, denim is fluid and changes slowly with age almost as dramatically as the first quick change. Continued wear and wash not only fades the jeans but inperceptively changes how they fit and change to shape your body.

So how can you possibly know what size to buy to get the perfect jean? Well, thanks to the experiences that people have shared here (and my own personal experience with 501’s), there are some guidelines that can be given. I’ve even written a tool to help you find the perfect firt before you purchase: check it out!

First, I recommend using your true waist size when you size a new pair of shrink to fits. Yes they will shrink a bit in the waist but they also stretch easily with very little wear. They may feel a bit tight when they first come out of the dryer after a wash but in just a couple hours will feel comfortable again. If you add inches to the waist, when they stretch they will get quite baggy.

Second with the length, I recommend +3 inches. They will seem quite long when you first buy them and try them on, but most of the shrinking occurs in the length. Three inches will ensure that they will be the correct length after shrinking them and you won’t have to tug on the inseam while they are wet to get the right length.

Another thing to remember is that 501 Shrink to Fits notoriously look slimmer than they feel. Keep this in mind, and try using a mirror or a trusted friend to judge how they look rather than just going on how they feel. They will also get slimmer with age so don’t give up on them too soon. Initial reports suggest that the new cut of the jean (since about summer 2008) is quite a bit slimmer even at the start; so if you haven’t tried the 501’s for a couple years, now may be a good time to try them again.

So check out the 501xx Sizing Tool and enjoy a new pair of perfectly fitted jeans!

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New Feature: Forums and More!

February 3rd, 2009 · Personal

I am very pleased to announce the addition of forums to 1 is A | 2 is B. There has been a growing community of people in the comments on certain articles; the hope is that the forums will allow this community to continue to grow and interact. Please check it out, register, and start posting! See you in the forums :-)

Also, there is a new page that serves as a roundup of all the Levi’s related articles. There are also more minor tweaks to the site so poke around and see what’s new.

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Ideas for soaking and drying Levi’s 501xx Shrink to Fit Jeans

January 23rd, 2009 · Fashion

For more on Levi’s 501xx Original Shrink to Fit Jeans, please see my other articles on the subject.

Let’s all admit it, soaking and drying your 501’s is a huge part of the appeal of these pants. It’s the personal touch and the messiness and the smell of wet denim and the looks your significant other or friends give you when you tell them of bathing in your new blue jeans. What seems to be always true though, is if someone asks — and sometimes even if they don’t — you are eager to share the story of your shrink to fits starting with that initial soak.

So why not make it an interesting story? Here are some great ideas — some mine, some from the readers — of ways to start your jeans off with an adventure and a good story to boot.

These kids have got it right? or wrong?

These kids have got it right? or wrong?

Apparently, back in the early days of the 501, indoor plumbing was not nearly as common as it was today so folks would put on their new pants and hop in a horse trough, or a creek, or a water tower (ew). Later, counter culture youths would wear their jeans into the ocean or have shrink parties together in the bath tub. One of the common threads however, which I would hazard as a recommendation, is that one would shrink their jeans according to their lifestyle. (thanks for the info Steve!)

As a review the recommended steps to take is 30 minutes wearing them in a warm bath and then letting them dry on your body (approx. 6 hours). However, don’t let that stop you from experimenting; it would be awful boring if there were only one way to do it — and these jeans are anything but boring! Remember, while you are planning your soaking, try wearing your stiff new jeans with cuffs (turn ups) for a few weeks or months. This will only make them better after they are soaked and fitted to your body.

Many people have pointed out that both cold and warm baths work (warm shrinks more) as well as showers. Hot tubs, swimming pools, oceans, lakes, ponds, rivers, even gross horse troughs are all viable options. Outside is best for drying weather permitting, and moving around a little in your jeans while they dry is probably a good idea as well.

In the good weather your options are greatly increased: shrink them and go out for a walk, or to a bar, or the beach, or shrink them before going out on a saturday night (by the time you get home they’ll probably be dry). Maybe go to the mall or to a restaurant, although I would not recommend soaking in fountain unless you want to have a chat with security. It’s a good idea to get your friends involved and make a day of it. If you are in Chicago, maybe that means swimming in Lake Michigan and riding bikes around downtown.

Joe from Austin, TX left this comment:

I have always worn mine in a spa, hot tub or pool brand new and let them dry on. I’m a lifeguard and scuba diver so water is always near. You can adjust the fit of your Levis by doing a couple of deep knee bends, and also by providing lift in the crucial areas for good athletic support. Levis and Wranglers are the only brands that provide good support. Divers and open water guards wear Levis for protection from stings, abrasion and cuts [under water]. I live in Texas so the hot summer sun allows you to swim in Levis every day if you want and have them dry on. Some people will say that ‘jeans are heavy wet’. Not for intrepid swimmers. And, if you want to swim and free dive just add good dive boots and fins and you’ll become a fish [under water]. I do this all the time. In fact, dive shops carried Levis 512 Slimfit Jeans modified for aquatics and embroidered and labeled them ‘Levis Diveskins’.

The Ocean Approach

The Ocean Approach

Take Jesse’s experience for example: “I recently shrunk my first pair of jeans in a local lake and dried myself/them on the sun drenched dock. No bath tub cleaning for me!”

In the cold weather at home I tend to sit on a towel and watch and movie then do chores around the house. I you could also try taking a nap.

This year during the coldest month, I am going to be on a beach in Jamaica. I’m looking forward to soaking a new pair in the ocean and drying on the sand. That will be a great story to tell and to remember every time I wear those jeans.

Remember, be creative and be true to your lifestyle. Please share your experiences below, it’s fun to hear about people’s relationship to their Levi’s.

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Levi’s 501XX Shrink to Fit FAQ

January 3rd, 2009 · Fashion

For more on Levi’s 501xx Original Shrink to Fit Jeans, please see my other articles on the subject. Thank you to all the commenters for the great information and experience they have brought to these articles.

The FAQ

Boy oh boy, I’ll tell you I really had no idea. When I wrote the first Howto on shrinking Levi’s 501xx Shrink to Fit (STF) blue jeans I had no clue what a huge and fun topic it really was! I still feel like the 501xx is the best value in jeans out there today and certainly the most personal experience when compared to the pre-washed variety. Plus — and I don’t care how much you pay for them — new jeans that are manufactured with a “already worn” look will never look as good as a pair of well loved 501’s.

On just the two articles I have gotten close to 200 comments and questions from really insightful, curious, and knowledgeable people. Together I think we have all learned a lot about jeans based on our own experience and the research that everyone has put into it. I felt like it was about time to post another article with the highlights from these discussions. Keep commenting and keep breaking in those jeans!

  • Can you quickly describe the best way to shrink your 501 Shrink to Fit jeans?
    As a review, the generally accepted best way to shrink you 501xx’s is to:

    1. Buy a new pair at your regular waist size and about 3 inches longer than you usually buy pants.
    2. Wear the stiff jeans until they become a bit softer.
    3. Draw a normal temperature bath and wear the jeans in the tub for about 30 minutes.
    4. Get out of the tub and continue to wear your jeans until they are dry.
    5. Wear your newly shrunk jeans for a while before washing them for the first time.

    There are many more tweaks and aspects to understand about this process which I will hopefully answer in further detail below.

  • Can I get my 501’s any slimmer?
    501’s are a classic cut which is slightly straighter leg then is currently in syle for men’s jeans (skinny jeans for the most part). I have a few answers when people ask me this question:

    1. Be sure to buy your STF’s at or below your waist size for a snug fit
    2. After your first soak before you wash your jeans, you can do a second tub soak which will shrink them further but not nearly as dramatically as the first soak.
    3. 501xx’s actually feel roomier than they look. Be sure to get some feedback from people you trust about how they look rather than just going by how they feel.
    4. As you wear and wash the jeans they will continue to change and mold to your body. Try wearing them for a while before giving up entirely on them.
    5. Hot water and hot dryers shrink jeans (and almost everything else). Boiling will also shrink them. Be warned though, you will lose a lot of indigo dye by treating them this severely. If you want a fadded look this will help the process along. If not be sure to turn them inside out or use colder water. Less dye means less contrast. see below for more on color.
  • What size 501xx should I buy?
    This is quite a common question. My advice is to get your regular waist size and your length +3 inches. I’m about 6 feet tall 155 lb and I get 31×36 for a perfect length. If you want to cuff or want really tight in the butt and thighs adjust length and waist an inch or two in the direction you want.
  • How can I get a certain color or fade in my STF’s?
    All STF’s may start out the same, but it’s entirely up to you on how they turn out. Basically, you can buy STF new in Indigo and Black, the former being the most common choice. How color and fade goes is simply: the more dye in the pant the darker it is. Contrast is when you purposely try to keep dark colors in some areas of the pant (inseam for example) and wear away color in other areas (thighs, whiskers, wallet outlines, etc). Basic rules of thumb are:

    1. The first wash is the most important wash (after initial soaking)
    2. Washing the jeans will remove dye
    3. Soap removes more dye than just water
    4. The hotter the water is, the more dye it will remove
    5. Turning your pants inside out when washing will keep more dye than right-side out
    6. Dry cleaning will remove dye but not as dramatically as soap and water

    People will go for 6 to 12 months wearing their jeans daily without washing. The longer you go between washings the greater the contrast you will have between the faded and non-faded areas of your jeans. The longer you can go the more character they will have. If the smell is too great for you, soaking them in cold water (with a bit of salt and vinegar, always inside out!) or dry cleaning may be an option if you want to keep the dry denim look (will remove dirt without removing much dye). If you go that long hot water will give the most contrast but will shrink more and will make them lighter than if you use warm water.

  • What is the difference between Raw, Rigid, Dry, and Washed denim?
    Let’s take them one at a time:

    • Raw denim is what you buy when you buy your new 501xx Shrink to Fits. This cotton denim has been completely untreated and unwashed which is why it will shrink so much during the first soak. It has a lighter hue than after the soak.
    • Rigid and Dry denim are the same as far as I can tell. They are similar to the soaked STFs. Basically they are still quite stiff and will continue to shrink and change over time with washing but are much closer to the size they will remain. They may be stiff but in no time they will feel quite comfortable. Many jeans companies sell rigid jeans including wrangler for a similar price point and other for considerably more.
    • Washed and Pre-washed 501’s have essentially been machine washed before you bought them. They feel like most jeans you have bought and worn in the past. The pre-washed 501’s it should be noted are different from the STF’s additionally because their inseam is sewn with a single stitch rather than the double stitch used for the STF’s. More on this later.
  • I’m confused by this jean terminology! What is double/single stitching, double/single felled, selvedge, hidden rivets, denim weight, etc?
    No sweat, I was confused too at first! Let’s take them one at a time:

    • Stitched and felled are terms used to describe the actual construction of the jeans. Levi’s Guidehas a great pictoral guide which I will try to recreate here. A single felled versus a double felled inseam would look like this:
      single fel

      Single Felled

      Double Felled

      Double Felled

      For example the inseam (seam that runs down the inner thigh) on the 501xx STF is double felled whereas on the 501 Pre-Wash it is single. Single and Double stitching can either mean the same thing as fel or can be used to describe stitching that has been gone over more than once with thread.

    • Selvedge describes how the denim fabric itself was made. On regular 501xx’s if you look inside the pant leg, the outseam will have stitching in place to keep the edge of the fabric from fraying. Jeans that use selvedge fabric instead have a solid white edge which is the actual edge of the fabic on the loom where it was woven. Here’s a picture of selvedge edging to give you an idea:
      Red line selvedge on vintage 501's
      This is red line selvedge on vintage 501’s. The purpose of selvedge is mainly for looks and to denote a jean that is perhaps higher quality and of finer craftsmanship (although there is a slight strength advantage over non-selvedge jeans). There are new and vintage Levi’s jeans that have selvedge which are described below and are much more expensive than the standard 501xx STF.
    • Hidden rivets are rivets that cannot be seen from the outside of the jean because they are covered with denim. You can check on the inside of the jean to see the hidden rivets. The current 501xx STF do not have any hidden rivets though in the past Levi’s have used them from time to time. Hidden rivets main purpose is to denote a vintage pair of Levi’s or Levi’s of finer craftsmanship.
    • Denim weight is a characteristic of the thickness and heavy-dutiness of the denim fabric (thread count, density, etc). 501xx STF jeans currently use a denim of 12.5 oz. Denim weight and cotton origin and quality are often used to separate quality of jeans. 12.5 oz is pretty average and 501xx STF for the price are by far the best value for this quality of raw denim.
  • Do 501xx have selvedge/hidden rivets/heavy wieght denim/etc?
    Standard $30 501 STF’s current are a pretty basic jean and do not come with some of the bells and whistles that people look for in more expensive raw/rigid denim pants. Levi’s does however have a line called Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) that sells very high quality replicas of vintage 501’s for about the $300 price range. Besides ebay for — mostly already shrunk — genuine vintage Levi’s, LVC’s are a great choice for someone looking for a particular style or a high quality selvedge/heavy weight demin jean. LVC 501’s are usually named by the year they are replicating (for example a popular choice is 1966 501 or the 1947 501).
  • Where can I buy STF’s?
    I really enjoy going to the brick and morter Levi’s Stores and trying on the pants before buying. Here are some other great options:

    • The Online Levi’s Store is of course an option but is usually more expensive and may not have the selection of raw sizes you are looking for
    • Sheplers is the choice of many of the people here because of their great size selection, discounts, and coupons
    • Langston is another great choice for the standard 501xx
    • Bargains Avenue
    • Cultizm is a fantastic resource for expensive and high quality denim
    • Ebay Store for Jeans (thanks Klaus!)
    • Denim Express (thanks Klaus!)
    • Jeans Direct (thanks Steve!) for the heavier weight (~14oz), pre-shrunk, european made 501’s
  • What about vintage Levi’s?
    Vintage Levi’s is an absolutely huge topic that I only have a cursory knowledge of. There is a fantastic site: Levi’s Guide that should certainly get you started if you are interested. Let us know what you find out!

That’s all I have for now. Keep the comments and questions coming and keep loving your jeans!

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